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Showing posts with label walking tours. Show all posts
Showing posts with label walking tours. Show all posts

January 18, 2018

Charleston, South Carolina

by Rosemary

The art of basket weaving was brought to South Carolina's lowcountry region by Africans who had been kidnapped into slavery in the 17th century. Baskets made of sweetgrass are a longstanding tradition in Charleston and the Mt. Pleasant area, where a long section of Highway 17 (also known as "Sweetgrass Basketmakers Highway") is lined with little basket stands. This one was right next to our hotel.


Charleston is also known for the beautiful wrought iron gates and railings that have been part of the city's architecture since the 18th century.



Cobblestone streets have been here since the 17th and 18th centuries. These stones were used as ballast in ships that came from England. When the ships were loaded with cargo, the stones were discarded. At some point, people began using them to pave the streets. It seemed like a good idea at the time, since it kept the streets from turning to mud after storms and high tides. A few of these historic streets have been preserved in Charleston. (We saw a few of them in Savannah, too.) They are very rough and miserable to drive on!


The street in the picture above is in front of the old Slave Mart. Prior to 1856, it had been the practice to hold slave auctions outside, but even in a city whose economy depended largely on slavery, the sight of human beings being bought and sold right out in the open made a lot of people uncomfortable, so public auctions were banned, and the trade moved indoors. After 1863, when the auctions stopped, the building went through various owners and expansions. Eventually, it was acquired by the city and the South Carolina African American Heritage Commission. It was restored and turned into a museum about the history of the city's slave trade.


There are many different kinds of historic buildings in Charleston. Rainbow Row is a group of 13 Georgian-style houses, nicknamed for the colorful pastels used to paint their exteriors.


Another colorful building is the Pink House. Originally a tavern, it was built some time between 1690 and 1712, using pink Bermuda stone. Depending on the source, it is considered either the oldest or second-oldest remaining house in Charleston. It has only one small room on each of its three floors. Although it is in a residential zone, it has no kitchen, and apparently never did. (In the 17th and 18th centuries, kitchens were typically outside or in separate buildings, to reduce the risk of burning down the main house.) Over the years it has been renovated several times and has housed a variety of businesses, most recently an art gallery. According to Zillow, it was sold for $799,000 in 2014.


We toured the Nathaniel Russell House. This mansion, completed in 1808, is not a typical Charleston home; it represents the lavish lifestyle of the ultra-wealthy. (It cost $80,000 to build at a time when average houses were worth less than $300.) The Historic Charleston Foundation has used extensive research and modern technology to restore the home's original look and feel.



Dinner time in 1820.


Decorative details at the ceiling's edge.

The Circular Congregational Church building is the third in this location, built in 1890 using bricks from an earlier structure that had been destroyed in a fire. The original congregation was established here in 1681. The graveyard is probably the oldest remaining English burial ground in Charleston.


We walked around town, but a lot of tourists enjoy the carriage rides.


From the waterfront, we could see the ruins of Castle Pinckney, a fort built in 1810 that proved to be of little use, now being gradually reclaimed by nature.


Charleston's Fort Sumter is famous as the site where the Civil War began. We didn't have enough time to take the tour there, but we were able to visit Fort Moultrie, which was part of South Carolina's seacoast defense from the Revolutionary War through World War II. Several underground rooms are set up as they were in the 1940s.


We enjoyed strolling through Waterfront Park, where we saw dolphins splashing near the shore, as well as a wide variety of seabirds, and a river otter.


Pelican

River Otter

On a hot day, people might be tempted to jump into the pineapple fountain. We weren't there on a hot day.


All in all, we had a great time in Charleston. Next stop: Savannah.


Note: We were here in early December.

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January 7, 2018

Touring the District

by Rosemary

The National Zoo is not the country's grandest zoo, but it does have pandas.


Tian Tian enjoys a snack.

The lion guarding the gate and the lions inside share a noble attitude.

On a cool November day, the crowds got thinner as the afternoon wore on. By three or four o'clock the zoo was so quiet and empty that it almost seemed we had the place to ourselves.


Red-ruffed Lemur

Nothern Treeshrew

Prairie Dog

Golden Lion Tamarin

Golden-headed Lion Tamarin

Tiger
Click on an image to enlarge it.

Back in the center of town, we spent a lot of time in or near the National Mall, a long, narrow park stretching two miles from the Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial. It is lined with museums, galleries, and grand public buildings. There are many monuments memorializing historical people and events, and a seemingly endless series of wars.

The Lincoln Memorial contains what is probably the best-known statue of a U.S. President. Lincoln sits on a throne that is high enough to photograph without being blocked by tourists' heads. The inscription reads, "In this temple, as in the hearts of the people for whom he saved the Union, the memory of Abraham Lincoln is enshrined forever."


Compare this image to two life masks of Lincoln in the nearby National Portrait Gallery. The one on the left was made in 1860. The one on the right, made just five years later, shows the toll that illness, stress, and war had taken on the President.


Not far from Lincoln is the Korean War Veterans Memorial, a group of 19 larger-than-life statues on patrol near the Wall of Remembrance.


Across the way is the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. It includes sculptures representing the men and women who served in Vietnam. The best-known part of the memorial is the Wall, listing, in chronological order, over 58,000 who died or were declared missing between 1955 and 1975. People come here to find names, touching them, taking rubbings, contemplating, and leaving mementos.


The Women's Memorial depicts women caring for a wounded soldier.


The Wall is huge.

The World War II Memorial is an enormous plaza with water features, triumphal arches, and 56 granite pillars representing the states and territories of the United States.


The "Freedom Wall" displays 4,048 stars, each representing 100 Americans who died in the war. The inscription in front of the wall reads "Here we mark the price of freedom".


Not far from the WWII memorial is one of the most recognizable symbols of this city, the Washington Monument. This 555-foot marble obelisk, built to honor George Washington, was the world's tallest structure for about a year, until the Eiffel Tower was completed in 1889. There is an observation deck, accessible by elevator, but the elevator is currently being repaired, so the monument will be closed until some time in 2019.


Just south of the Mall is the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial. This 30-foot-high sculpture, called the "Stone of Hope" (based on a line from King's "I Have A Dream" speech) made me think of the group of Michelangelo sculptures in Florence, which were deliberately left unfinished to create the sense of powerful figures emerging from the stone.

The walls around the sculpture are engraved with many inspirational quotations from King's speeches and sermons. We can hope that he was correct when he said, "I believe that unarmed truth and unconditional love will have the final word in reality. This is why right, temporarily defeated, is stronger than evil triumphant."


A short walk away along the edge of the Tidal Basin is the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, a 7.5-acre exhibit that includes sculptures, water features, and quotations commemorating FDR's four presidential terms.

"We must scrupulously guard the civil rights and civil liberties of all citizens, whatever their background. We must remember that any oppression, any injustice, any hatred, is a wedge designed to attack our civilization."
"The test of our progress is not whether we add more to the abundance of those who have much, it is whether we provide enough for those who have too little."


A scene from the Great Depression.


FDR and his little dog, Fala.

Across the Tidal Basin is another Neoclassical building with an abundance of stairs, the Thomas Jefferson Memorial.



Looking toward the Washington Monument from the Jefferson Memorial.


The bronze statue by sculptor Rudolph Evans is 19 feet tall.

Another president is remembered at the east end of the Mall, not far from the Capitol steps. Ulysses S. Grant sits on horseback, flanked by bronze sculptures of Union soldiers winning the Civil War.


Another great Neoclassical building is the National Archives, completed in 1937. It has the largest pediments in Washington DC, 118 feet wide. The north pediment, created by sculptor Adolph Alexander Weinman, is called "Destiny". In the center is a male figure representing Destiny, flanked by figures symbolizing history, peace, war, achievement, guardianship, and other concepts.


On the side of the building is inscribed, "This building holds in trust the records of our national life and symbolizes our faith in the permanency of our national institutions."

A statue outside the building advises us to "Study the Past."


Another warns that "Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty."


Inside we were very pleased to view our important national documents, the Declaration of Independence, Constitution, and Bill of Rights. Yes, the original documents, carefully preserved and sealed (and closely guarded), are available for everyone to see.

Photos courtesy of the National Archives


Within walking distance of the Archives is the White House, which has been the official residence of every U.S. president since John Adams. Thanks to zoom lenses, these pictures do not reveal that it is no longer possible to approach the fence surrounding the White House grounds, and there is a very heavy presence of security guards, police, and Secret Service, as well as large crowds of tourists. We decided not to take the tour, but we walked all the way around and viewed the building from both the front and back.



The National Christmas Tree was already in place, across the street from the White House.


On another day, we followed the "Logan Circle Heritage Trail", a self-guided tour in and around a residential district known for its 19th-century homes and historical sites.


John A. Logan is the centerpiece of Logan Circle.


In addition to all the sights described in this and the previous two posts, we visited several museums and galleries and saw many more monuments, buildings, and points of interest. We spent over two weeks in the D.C. area and took around 1,300 photos. Thanks to a great public transportation system, we were able to go just about everywhere we wanted without using our car.


Black SUVs with heavily tinted windows were
everywhere around Capitol Hill.

This bronze "Statue of Freedom" stands
on top of the Capitol.


Good to know.


Architectural detail from a building near the Mall.


A statue of Benjamin Franklin in front
of the old Post Office building.

These are everywhere.

We left D.C. on November 18 and headed south.



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